I am adjusting to the limited exposure options at least compared to a digital camera. I can live with the weight of the camera. I know I can move to a waist level finder but prefer not to. I find the 6x7 a bit quirky and remain concerned about the infamous chain breaking and the camera being rendered useless. Keep in mind that I have never worked with film before. So, doing the math given what the lenses sell for in mint condition, I paid about $600 for the body with all the accessories and the original gray case lined in red velvet. Boxes for all lenses, manuals, everything.Original carrying case - perfect condition save for one small mark.
#NIKON F90X SPECS MANUALS#
a 6x7 in the box, wood grip looks like it was never used, additional "magnifying" adapter to check focus, original packaging and manuals.I purchased the following bundled together: Let me begin by saying that I didn't pay $1200 for just the camera body.
#NIKON F90X SPECS MANUAL#
The TTL pentaprism with lightmeter couples to the shutter speed and aperture and provides for manual 'match needle' exposure setting Pentaprism, TTL pentaprism with light meter, folding waist level, rigid waist level magnifying hoodġ84 x 149 x 91 mm (with pentaprism, without lens)Īccepts leaf shutter lens for flash synchronization to 1/500s. Pentaprism 90% coverage, waist level 100% coverage
Yes, except for the first year of productionĮxchangeable. I say that because shooting film slows you down, because each shot costs you something in terms of the film itself and the developing process.The Pentax 6x7 was the original medium format 6x7cm body from Pentax, launched in 1969. One thing that I have noticed since I started shooting film again is that it has improved the rate of good images I take. Pints of the photos on the other hand, look fine. I have taken some nice shots with the F90X, but I am not overly impressed with ISO200 film, at least when looking at it on a computer screen. When it comes to film cameras the quality of your images come down to the type of film you use, and your composition skills, more than anything else. The only real difference is that you only have a roll of film to work with, so take your time when shooting! If you use a 24 exposure roll of film and use continuous high motor drive, you'll go through a roll of film in about 17 seconds! With that in mind, I would not recommend using a film camera for action or nature photography! I generally use film for landscape photos only, which is where it really seems to shine. Exposure controls work the same as on any SLR camera, in terms of the different shooting modes, which means there is nothing new to learn from that perspective.
#NIKON F90X SPECS ISO#
Since DX (not digital crop) coded film gives you the ISO setting, you just put the film in and forget it. There aren't hundreds of different settings to change, you can even use program mode and shoot with it as if it was a point and shoot camera, although I would not advise doing so. In terms of actual use, the F90X is rather simple.
You do want to be careful when buying older film cameras because they can be reaching the end of their life, so make sure you buy from someone you know, or a dealer with some kind of warranty or 90 Day refund policy. I was able to buy my F90X for $50 US dollars, and it is in great shape. The F90X/N90s is a film body, which would be a great camera for someone who wants to shoot film, but does not want to compromise in terms of build, auto focus speed, and easy of use, without spending over $100 for a camera like the F4, F5, F80 or F100.
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